Day 4 - Vines to Bitterroots, Starts Wet, Ends in Bourbon [Full Update]

My day four only began after day four's earlier, early morning atmospheric disturbance calmed down a bit. Yes, early in the night, about 1 to 2 am, thunderstorms rattled my tent and kept me semi-awake and out of my normal REM sleep from time to time. I was snug as a bug in a rug in my sleeping bag as flashes of lightning illuminated my humbled nylon tent. As dawn approached, thunder claps were further in the distance, but rain sprinkled still. My iPhone alarm went off and caught me in a deep, short, inter-thunder slumber. I laid and listened, still thunder, still sprinkles. Cancelled the iPhone marimba solo and cancelled rising. There is time to wait the storm out and re-start the daily tour start-up later. I fell fast asleep.

This sleep, wake, assess the outer-world-cycle went on for a few more times. Finally, I had to make a gamble and decide to press "control-alt-delete" to reboot the morning. I emerged from the tent about 7:00.

Ok, not raining, but moisture all around and a dark and ominous gray lid of clouds made me a bit concerned about the day's forecast. More thunder claps in the distance. I needed to fire up breakfast, pack and set out - felt like I had no choice.

In my grand total of two solo supported trips, seven days across this trip so far and last years trip combined, I had not yet faced an adverse weather situation, Well, there was last year's tour, last day over Bluett pass with cool temps, some rain. Not a big deal. Bluett pass was only a minor anoyance. Plus, I would see Jen that day and knew if things were bad, I could hail her for an evac. But today, in the middle of Idaho's Bitterroots, I was strung pretty taught, a spoke on a wheel of concern.

I had left my backpack stove out last night - even after I thoroughly, surveyed Camp Slogger for left out items before I went to bed. And you know what? That stove would not start due to it being rained on during the night. I am already a bit frazzled by the weather and was seriously worried my cup o' joe and bowl o' oats would not come to a... basket o' fruition. I really tried with that thing. I kept hitting the igniter. I kept blowing the fine water droplets out of the burner screen, I cursed, I crossed my finger and toes... finally she caught and little blue flames circled the burner, roared and of it went. I plopped my micro water kettle on the burner and sat down on the picnic table bench and in a few easy minutes had a nice cup of coffee in my hands. Half cup in the gullet, I concocted some backpacker oatmeal. Rather dry.

But wet still threatens. Morning temperatures were a bit cool. I pack up camp Slogger. I head out of camp.

Just as I exited the main entrance to Wilderness Gateway Campground, BOOM, CRASH, HAIL. I thought oh great. I pulled into the camp ground kiosk with its little cedar roof overhang and tried to stay dry. It hailed for about 10 minutes - little white ice pebbles dancing all over the ground. As soon as it subsided - off I rode. Twenty minutes later, BOOM, CRASH, more HAIL. I left the Burro on the shoulder of the highway and sprinted for a big pine for shelter. This is getting old and I'm getting cold.

If I have to deal with weather all day, I'm not going to be a happy, recently departed from my campground, camper. I only have 40 miles today on the docket, so I could likely muddle through it. The hail subsided after about 15 minutes. Hop on the burro and decide to push on.

This time, a weather calm prevails and I am able to start making some miles and feel better. Still, though, the distant thunder is quite active. I'm also feeling buoyed by the fact at the end of today's ride is Lochsa Lodge. I just need to keep riding and get there.

Signs and saying I'm making progress - but you can see its still cloudy and wet.

By about half way to Lochsa Lodge- the weather turns to being quite nice. Its cooler today due to the left over low pressure system and rains, but the sun is out and its nice. I'm thinking its no hotter than 65 or 70 degrees.

Getting nicer...

My hood ornament, Winchester took some rain today.  But, he ain't one to complain that lil buddy of mine.

Yes, now things are swimmingly, er bicycling, well. Then in a moment, chaos sets in. I am riding along and I hear this high pitched metallic "ping". I knew exactly what the sound meant. Broken spoke. I look down and the Burro is wobbling from the rear wheel. And its a pretty large wobble. Wump, wump, wump. I slow down, stop and examine the damage. One spoke is pulled from the rim. I check its 35 other brothers and sisters and they seem ok albeit each will need to do more work for sure. So, I take a minute to ponder the state of my machine and believe if the dues ex machina is to show itself at all, now is the time. I ponder some more. I have a spoke wrench, but no spare spoke (way to go Slogger man!). The wheel on the rear takes the most load on a touring bike and I know I have at least 40 pounds back there in extra mass. Ok, here is what I am going to do since the "God From The Machine" is obviously not coming - I'm going to shift the weight to the front wheel as best as I can.

This is what I came up with. I moved the panniers to the front rack and now most of the weight is on the front. I head off up the road.

Uh... not so fast. The bike is handling HORRIBLY. The front end sways back and forth and I am not able to keep the bike going straight - at least not without a lot of concentration and elbow grease. This is dangerous. Time to make some more load adjustments. I end up with the panniers on the back and the tent and sleeping bag on the front. This seems to be the best fore-aft balance. I get back onto the road and keep my fingers crossed.

The weather continues to improve and it is just one of the glorious bicycling days. I am feeling really good and cannot wait to pull into the Lodge. The wheel seems to be holding.

Thar she blow's! 

I get in about 2 and the afternoon is early. I can't get into my cabin until 3 pm. I park the burro outside the lodge and grab a bite to eat. Food is par excellence!

I ran into this 'guy' hanging around the log convenience store. A hand written sign on the store said "CAT STAYS OUTSIDE!" Ok. Got it!

I got into my cabin about 3:30.

I chilled for a couple hours and got a nap in. There is something so satisfying about a nice nap after a long day's ride. The door was open to my cabin, the windows open and invited a cool breeze in - very special. I went back to the lodge, grabbed a burger and a beer and headed back to the cabin. Time for the flask, I poured Woodford Reserve Bourbon. Cheers to the Burro!

I made it to the cabin w/o any real issues from the broken spoke. I decided to look at the issue more closely as I sipped my bourbon. Yep... broken spoke, separated from its nipple. Not much I can do at this point. Tomorrow is mostly downhill ONCE I get over the final 8 miles of Lolo pass. The downhill side concerns me since I will be moving at higher speeds and the wheels are therefore subject to higher forces. Will the wheel fold under the stress? I don't know.

As usual, I am out by 8:30 or so. Tucked in my cozy cabin... I head off to the Land of Nod.

Here are the daily totals:

Distance:	39.82 mi
Time:	3:29:21
Avg Speed:	11.4 mph
Elevation Gain:	1,421 ft
Calories:	1,950 C
Avg Temperature:	70.9 °F

A really mellow day except the rainy start and the broken spoke. Tomorrow is the last day of the tour. I feel like its been a success - but still have one day to be sure.

The Garmin routte data:

Day 3 - Vines to Bitterroots, Wolves to Goose Flesh [Full Update]

(Well the full updates are still trickling in. Blame my poor updating timeliness on... freakin' life just gets in the way sometimes)

The two hardest days are behind me now! Day 3 is only 58 miles and has just 1300 feet of climbing. It follows the Clearwater and then the Lochsa rivers. My first day of the tour on the rivers! Riding along a river is generally low elevation gain since most rivers follow a gradual decent path. However, I'm riding upstream, so there is some climbing to be done today.

I rise out of bed not too early knowing I only have 4-5 hours of total elapsed time to get to Winderness Gateway campground - my next stop. I grap the free continental breakfast at the hotel, and hit the road by 8 am.

I ride a few miles and I realize I'm in a rather different world from the big Seattle city. Along side highway 12 was the sign painted below regarding wolves. I stopped and had to take a photo. There is a lot wrong with this sign. I'll just leave it at that.

Highway 12 from Kamiah, ID to Lolo, MT, essentially, is one long winding road, with limited services and only remote access to the national forest north and south of the highway.

Always have to take pics of the road signs showing the miles to go. 147 to Missoula!

Some rafters going down the Lochsa. Looks like fun and nice and cool.

If you look closely... EI EI EI OO. I dunno... OO is not OH to me. But hey still makes yah laugh! Love finding this stuff on the road.

So, let me tell you about a little known physiological quirk I have. If I am out on a bicycle tour and I see another lone soul or group touring, I get goose bumps (aka goose flesh). You're pedaling along, slogging the miles, in  your own world and up ahead is another fool like you coming your way - and a big wave and "morning" is exchanged, I get cutis anserina (the goosies!).  Its silly I know.

So I am about two hours into today's ride and I run in to Matt and Tim heading the other way on highway 12. I'm chilling on the side of the road, leaning against the guard rail and along they ride and all of a sudden they cross the road to my side and say hello. It was cool. But they approached so quickly I thought they were going to rumble with me and the Burro. Matt (on the left) was from Colorado and Tim was from Switzerland. From what I could tell- they were just riding together for a few days - they met a while back on the road. I really enjoy this stuff - adventure cyclists are a large clan and its always neat to chat with them on the open road.

So my destination is Wilderness Gateway Campground. And I roll in about 2:30 in the afternoon. The campground is quiet - its Sunday afternoon. I find my reserved spot- B11. My spot is back a ways well into a lot of trees and shrubbery - this makes the hot day feel even hotter since its muggy with all this vegetation around. I set up camp. I'm in to camp early today, I'm setup, time to relax.

Camp Slogger

I tried to take a quick snooze in the tent, but it was stifling. Out I go, from the tent and set up my sleeping pad on the picnic table. Grab my book and read, snooze, read and snooze some more. Life is good.

After a few hours, the temps come down a hair and I'm getting hungry. This morning in Kamiah, I planned ahead for tonight and grabbed two Sierra Nevada Pales from the reefer and buried them deep in the middle of my pannier, wrapped in paper and extra clothes so I would have them to drink in camp tonight. Quick to the beer! Unwrap them... cool enough to say, oh yah, this tastes good.

So the menu for the night is Yaki Soba with Salmon - a la backpacking dehydrated sealed packets.

It was not too bad really. Seemed to fill me up on the calories and had ok flavor.

I put some music on the I-phone. Finish dinner and do some reading and route planning for tomorrow. Good Time Charlie's Got the Blues is one of my favorites.

My reading for the trip was Slaying the Badger - about Lemond and Hinault and the 1986 Tour de France.

After dinner and two beers I take the Burro for a jaunt around the campground. The camp is about 10% full really. Nobody here.

Boulder Creek

Still love my horns on the burro.

I hit the rack about 8:30. Down for the count.

Today's stats:

Distance: 56.78 mi
Time: 4:24:50
Avg Speed: 12.9 mph
Elevation Gain: 1,339 ft
Calories: 2,851 C
Avg Temperature: 83.9 °F

Click the View Details below for all the data.

The bike beckons me.

It has been some time since I have been on a bike. I think it was July 9th- the last day of my tour in Missoula. I also am just now getting over a nasty case of bronchitis. So on Saturday I had to get out. I hopped on the Seven and headed out for a 20 mile ride to Fiddlers Inn which serves great beer and has a nice beer garden. Ahhhh. 

Day 2 - Vines to Bitterroots, A Moose Hitches a Ride [Full Update]

Day 2: Lewiston, ID to Kamiah, ID
Days Motto: Watch out for hitchhikers
 
I had a nice sleep last night. Asleep by 8. Not even dark out yet. I had dinner at Applebee's, two beers, hit the bed and was out. I knew tomorrow would be another difficult day, actually shorter in miles than day one, but with more climbing.

Let me make a side note here. Even though yesterday had some route mishaps, I'm pretty good at knowing what a day's ride will entail in terms of distance, elevation gain, elevation loss, net elevation change, when major climbs occur, where major towns are, amount of average road traffic, road conditions, average amount of shoulder on the road, road construction impacts, local flora and fauna, socio-economic levels of the communities along the road and even how high the sun will be in the sky for each mile on the road at the planned time I will be riding that section. Ok, some of these are bullshit on my part, just thrown in here to make yah chuckle... but I'm a data driven guy (comes partly from my career). 

So day 2 has the profile shown below. It's day 2, this data is burned into me brain. Right along side the picture of 72 virgins that await me in Heaven when I arrive in Kamiah. I don't have day 4 data in there yet, certainly not day 5. Day 1 is being archived. So, as I set out, I know what is in store for the day:

And as I said, this is another big day.

From the hotel down to Thain Grade Road is down hill - for about 200 yards. I need to take a left on the aforementioned Thain Grade Road and indeed... I do so. Then the first climb hits and continues for about four miles. I am essentially clawing my way out of the Snake River plane to get up on the surrounding plateaus. Rivers have a funny way of carving canyons over millennia. Move away from the Snake River, you gotta go up.

As I am clawing, I am thinking, oh yes, day 2 is going to be a bugger. But, boy o boy- its a beautiful morning.

After about 10 miles of climbing, the road turns downhill on its way to highway 95. Then, once I join 95, heading south, the road starts its 2900 feet of climb, for 18 miles up the Winchester grade to Winchester Lake. I start to get tired and its getting hot out. I start to take strategic mini-breaks, darting across the highway into the shade line of the trees of the other side of the road. I sit in the shade for about five minutes and then dart back across the road and do a 15-20 minute pull. Then its time for another rest.

So, I'm about half way up this climb and laying in the dirt along side the road is a stuffed animal. I mean not a real animal (how would it have been stuffed?), but a silly little stuffed moose in a Santa outfit. As I ride past, this give me a chuckle and I keep plodding up the grade. Wait. I'm gonna go pick up the lil moose and give him a lift! U-turn!

Meet the new mascot for the trip - I named him Winchester after this pesky hill I am riding when he appears.

He's in really great condition. Some poor kid must have lost him out the window of a passing car? It's not even Christmas - so how ever he got to the side of the road seems like even more of a mystery.

After two and a half hours of climbing - I arrive at the top of Winchester grade and take a one mile side trip to Winchester Lake.

The town near by, Winchester, is having some sort of ice cream social/street fair. It was really pleasant up here at 4,000 feet. I stopped in the local store and grabbed a bottle of icy cold water and just hung out for about 30 minutes. The worst was over and it was mostly downhill to Kamiah from there. But I still had 44 more miles to go.

I'm now up on the Camas prairie heading south on highway 95. Temps are in the upper 70s. The area is beautiful.  Reminds me of attending college in the Palouse at WSU (Pullman, WA). I love this kind of terrain, rolling hills, farmland, islands of pine trees... I'm doing ok pedaling along 95 I think to myself.

Along side highway 95, north of Ferdinand, ID are beautiful railroad trestles. This is the Camas Prairie Railroad. The photos below are Lawyer's Canyon.

Just highway 95...

After about 55 miles, it's time to turn off the highway and head due west toward Kamiah. Now, I'm pretty deep into the Camas farmlands. I plan on going through Greencreek, Idaho which is where my Mother's family homesteaded in the late 1800s. It ain't a big place.

Here is a winter photo of Greencreek I borrowed from the WWW. I seemed to have stopped taking pictures at this point that day. I'm really just focused on getting into Kamiah and those 72 virgins. Funny... when I thought when I got to Greencreek, I would just ride up to the first person and say - hey, you know any Kelsch's (my mother's maiden name)?

When I did arrive in Greencreek - I was beat. I stopped for a rest at the church. Stretched out under a big pine tree and thought - hell wit' it, I'm gonna take a snooze. But, no, I can't sleep, I am too intent on getting into Kamiah, so I rose up from the cool grass and hoped on the burro and just kept pedaling.

There was one final climb, before the long steep downhill down to the Clearwater River and Kamiah. Its a spiky thing on the plot above of the day's elevations. And it really caused me some existential angst. It was not more than a mile long - but knowing it was the final hill before the plunge, and the fact I was very tired at this point - made it pretty difficult. But, as I have blogged before- what are you going to do? Just quit pedaling an give up? You can't! I can't.

So I top the day out and head downhill. Ten miles... down to Kamiah.

When I get to Kamiah, I'm done, but happy. As I ride the streets of this tiny town, a guy in steroidal, jacked up pickup passes me and decides to blast me with a cloud of black smoke from his Cummings diesel. Wow- that was impressive! Hope he feels better now.

I arrive at my hotel at about 4:30. Yep- I gotta another luxurious room tonight in a two star hotel rather than pitching camp. I ain't proud! I chill a bit, take a shower and head to the grocery store. I have a nice meal and beer. Life is good.

So the days total:

Distance:	78.36 mi
Time:	6:47:19
Avg Speed:	11.5 mph
Elevation Gain:	5,348 ft
Calories:	4,796 C
Avg Temperature:	82.5 °F

Moving Time:	6:25:43
Elapsed Time:	8:54:50

Avg Speed:	11.5 mph
Avg Moving Speed:	12.2 mph
Max Speed:	38.3 mph

Elevation Gain:	5,348 ft
Elevation Loss:	5,190 ft
Min Elevation:	1,088 ft
Max Elevation:	4,001 ft

Avg Temperature:	82.5 °F
Min Temperature:	62.6 °F
Max Temperature:	105.8 °F

See... I love data!

Funny- even though I write in the blog - about being tired and beat and demoralized on the road. Once I arrive, I feel pretty good. Well, except for the black lung I have from my new Kamiah buddy. Yes, I'm tired, but not utterly incapacitated with exhaustion. I leave that job for the beers I drink to celebrate a day well done!


Today's details: